jcoppa
Junior Member
Posts: 66
|
Post by jcoppa on Mar 12, 2009 14:43:35 GMT -5
A question for the FED guys.
What rod end bearings do you run? Is a FK or Aurora cm6 good enough for drag links and tie rods considering the minimal weight on the front end. The cm6 has a max radial working load of over 5000 lbs. I can't see having any side load over 2.5 tons going straight. Seems like plenty to me. I bought a Neil & Parks wheelie bar kit and it comes with the same cm6 bearings.
What do you think.
Joe
|
|
|
|
Post by Dragster Jeff on Mar 12, 2009 23:21:30 GMT -5
If it's good enough for Neil and Parks.. It's good to go!
D.J.
|
|
jcoppa
Junior Member
Posts: 66
|
Post by jcoppa on Mar 13, 2009 11:03:20 GMT -5
Yeah, my thought was if they are strong enough for the loading of a wheelie bar it would be plenty for steering. The ones I'm taking off are gold cad plated and I think, over kill.
Due to my career I'm trying to get away from my old motto of "just go over kill then double it."
|
|
|
|
Post by Dragster Jeff on Mar 16, 2009 20:42:06 GMT -5
4 years ago when I got my '68 Tuttle car I did replace all the rod end bearings on it as many were rusted and stiff. Didn't cost that much for a little peace of mind. It goes nice and where ever I stear it.
Dragster Jeff
|
|
|
|
Post by Dave Tuttle on Mar 18, 2009 21:54:45 GMT -5
The CM-6 Rod Ends are all I ever use even though though there they're NOT the best when you look through a catalog.
What you may not know about Rod Ends is there are a couple of different methods of construction. Two Piece and Three Piece. No matter what band you're talking about, with the CM-6 for example , the C- stands for Low Carbon Steel and not Chrome Molly, while the M- states that its a male with right hand threads. Change that M to a B and its left hand threads. The 6 means its 3/8"-24 threads, the Military Standard of measurment. The CM Series are Two Piece design where they form the body around the ball to form the race.
In compairson to the top of the line Steel Rod Ends that will cost you 4 times as much, the XAM-6 had a Chrome Molly Body, Heat Treated Race and Hard Chromed Chrome Molly Ball, available with a Teflon Liner. Replace all of your steering with these and it'll set you back $400 to $500 Bucks, when the others will set you back $60 to $75 at retail prices.
What makes the cheaper ones better in my world is the fact that the Two Piece construction of the CM series has a lot more misalignment (swivel) that the more expencive Three Piece ones. 10 degrees compaired to 17 degrees.
When you're talking about the steering at least, getting everything to turn from lock to lock without binding is important. If you can't swivel them when you turn it all the way, they're trying to break off!!
Another common mistake I see all too often, while we're on the subject, is how far you should wind them into the linkage. Most people think that you should thread them up till you only have a couple of threads showing between the stop nut and the body. Not True !!! When you do this, there isn't enough of the stud sticking out to take the side loads and vibration. The result is that it treats those couple of threads like a crack and breaks off !!!
In a prefect world, you should have at least the width of the stud showing, or about 3/8". They will bend about 45 degrees this way before breaking, compaired to about 20 degrees the other way.
When it comes to Wheelie Bars, I only use one Rod End down by the wheel for a fine adjustment and don't recomend that you mount your wheelie bar to the back of the seat with them. The studs break off pretty easy and poke a hole in some of your more vital parts that the welder won't fix!!
Ok, I've gone on long enough !!!!!!
~Dave Tuttle~
|
|
|
|
Post by rmurphy on Mar 19, 2009 0:12:13 GMT -5
jcoppa, Listen to this guy, he knows what he's talking about !
Dave, See you at Funny Car Fever ? I'll do better next time. The track got me, Dude.
Murph.
|
|
jcoppa
Junior Member
Posts: 66
|
Post by jcoppa on Mar 19, 2009 11:45:24 GMT -5
Dave, thanks for taking the time to reply and sharing the info and extra detail. I removed some big chromo Teflon lined ends and actually gained turning radius using the cm6's like you said. I didn't think about the exposed male threads but, that makes a lot of sense, and I'm in good shape there.
Butch, file this one in the TECH archive!
Dave & Murph, I'll be at the Funny car fever helping Eric Gates in the Gates motor supply CIFCA Funny car, come by the pit for something cold.
Thanks again, Joe.
|
|
