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Post by rickracer on Mar 4, 2014 21:46:45 GMT -5
We just discovered that our '32 Bantam altered has a safety issue.The area where the tranny connects to the driveline is open and right between the driver's legs. If it lets go, the driver may lose their legs. Do they make a cover for this? If not, what are others using to address this issue? It appears that a piece of exhaust was used before, but that doesn't offer much, if any, protection.   |
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Post by fastfiat on Mar 5, 2014 22:31:36 GMT -5
Rick, we made ours out of 3" 1/4 wall aluminum tubing. we cut it down the middle and welded flanges on both sides to bolt it together. welded tabs on the bottom half to mount to the chassis. I've seen .125 wall used also. remember whats at stake here if you no what i mean.
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Post by Max Blast on Mar 27, 2014 20:18:34 GMT -5
Open drivlines passing the drivers body must be completely enclosed with minimum 1/8th inch steel.
NHRA:
all cars in competition using open driveshafts must have a retainer loop 360
degrees of enclosure, 1/4-inch minimum thickness and 2 inches
wide, or 7/8-inch x .065-inch welded steel tubing, securely mounted
and located within 6 inches of the front universal joint for support of
the driveshaft in event of U-joint failure. Open drivelines passing
any part of the driver’s body must be completely enclosed in 1/8-
inch minimum thickness steel plate, securely mounted to the frame
or frame structure. Driveshaft loop required on all cars running
13.99 (*8.59) or quicker and utilizing slicks;
regards,
Max Blast
Early Riders Rust-T
World's Quickest Rat Rod
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Post by Max Blast on Mar 28, 2014 11:03:20 GMT -5
The relevent section for your altered:
Open drivelines passing any part of the driver’s body must be completely enclosed in 1/8-
inch minimum thickness steel plate, securely mounted to the frame
or frame structure.
If you have passed tech at an NHRA track without having this part it casts a very dark shadow on whoever the tech guy was at the time. For the non-rigid rearend cars I have built we used a 6" x 1/4" wall steel tube which also took care of the "drivshaft loop" required in suspended cars. You can build your own drivline enclosure and the example given previously regarding splitting the tube and flanging it for easier removal is great advise.
I do have a problem with the previous responders "aluminum tube" method as it is clearly a violation of the NHRA safety rules in this area. Having passed tech one or more times does not change the rulebook. The safety rules were all written using a racer's blood to prevent you from suffering the same fate.
I am always available to help with this stuff and encourage all ANRA racers to at least research the safety sections of the NHRA rulebook. I spent years literally memorizing those rules. I am not suggesting that others should be as fanatical as I have been about this stuff but I am suggesting that you find someone who is fanatical to take a look at your racecar. A second well informed set of eyes my be your best available course of action.
hope this helps,
Max Blast
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Post by rickracer on Mar 29, 2014 17:28:02 GMT -5
Max, thanks for the insight. Send me a PM so I can give you my phone number, I'd like to pick your mind a little.
Rick
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Post by Max Blast on Mar 30, 2014 10:16:22 GMT -5
Rick, please feel free to contact me via email.
markj10647 at aol .com
I'll send you my phone number in return.
regards,
Max Blast
Early Riders Rust-T
World's Quickest Rat Rod
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Post by jbj on Jun 4, 2014 22:35:12 GMT -5
Well Max Blast was suppose to post something on this after the last race but since he has not I will so there is no confusion at the next race. This is only for hard line drive shafts, which is a drive shaft without u-joints.
2014 rule book:
Section 20, page 11 General Regulations
For all cars with driveshafts that do not contain universal joints but pass any part of the driver’s body: Each end of the driveshaft must have a full 360-degree cover of 1/16-steel or 1/8-inch aluminum. Rear cover must surround the coupler. Front cover must surround the driveshaft from back of the reverser to the end of the splicer sleeve in the area of the driver’s legs. All covers must be securely mounted to frame, suitable crossmember, reverser, or third member.
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Post by GregM784 on Jun 5, 2014 13:40:44 GMT -5
Mine is .250" aluminum, also split length wise to facilitate easy on/easy off. Held together with four bolts.
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Post by tdracing on Jun 9, 2014 18:40:16 GMT -5
I used an 1/8" cover on short drive shaft with two flex joints, solid mount rear, 6" tube cut in half. 4 bolt for easy maintenance. Attachments:
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Post by GregM784 on Jun 18, 2014 14:23:56 GMT -5
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Post by JR Van Osten on Aug 26, 2014 17:34:45 GMT -5
Just to clear the record on this, the covers previously on my altered were never made out of exhaust pipe...period. They were fabricated steel covers from Murf McKinney's shop. Second, that car passed tech at Fontana and Bakersfield numerous times by various tech guys. I would have preferred a full enclosed cover, but as you may find out soon enough, it wouldn't clear the bottom of the seat....hence, both ends were enclosed at the couplers and the mid section (about 10-12") of the solid MW drive shaft was exposed. I hope you found what you needed to get the car on the track finally.
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