jcoppa
Junior Member
Posts: 66
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Post by jcoppa on May 1, 2009 17:04:22 GMT -5
With so many non drag related delays I'm actually down to my very last item. I'm wearing a -5 suit and am in with the trans so my last item is the floor. I don't want to have any tech delays so how much detail does it need or how perfect do they expect it. BTW it is a non blown fed and were talkin tight quarters around the trans.
Help me out so I can come play with you guys. thanks, Joe
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Post by hyerus1 on May 1, 2009 18:55:50 GMT -5
NO FLOOR= 20 SUIT! FLOOR COMPLETLY SEALED= 5 SUIT. NO IFS AND OR BUTS! FOR YOUR SAFETY!!!!! OZZIE.
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jcoppa
Junior Member
Posts: 66
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Post by jcoppa on May 1, 2009 19:38:43 GMT -5
Well since I already bought a new -5 suit and I'd rather not lay down for a -20 it makes more sense to go through with the floor. I under stand the safety part but "completely sealed" does it have to be attached to the belly pan or can it be affixed to the lower frame tube. Does it have to extend to the nose cone seal ?Obviously there will be minimal gaps around the edges since it is a removable piece but where is that fine line. I'm not trying to sound like a pain but I'd like to avoid getting turned around after a 3 hr drive. I was going to walk the pits at the opener but decided to stay home and work on the car.
Thanks for the reply Ozzie Joe
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Post by hyerus1 on May 1, 2009 20:06:34 GMT -5
THE RULE STATES , THE DRIVER COMPARTMENT MUST BE SEALED. I HAVE SEEN GAPS ON THE BOTTOM SIDE RAILS SEALED WITH DUCT TAPE AND THEY PASS! REMEMBER, IT IS NOT SO MUCH ABOUT AN EXPLOSION, BUT RATHER A TRANS. LINE SPRAYING YOU IN THE thingyPIT! OZZIE.
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Post by Ron Gribble on May 1, 2009 23:10:03 GMT -5
Its worth the time to seal it fairly well. Trans mishaps are fairly common, trans oil is HOT. If you have small gaps between layers of metal one way to help seal is: Clean both parts very well. Put a generous layer of silicone sealer on the lower panel, underneath the upper panel. Put a layer of wax paper on top of silicone. Assemble. Wait a day. Take apart & remove wax paper. You now have a custom fitted high temp silicone gasket bonded to the lower layer. With care it will last for years. Ron
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Post by DALE TAROS on May 1, 2009 23:27:46 GMT -5
JOE, MY CAR JUST HAS A TWO PIECE FIREWALL BETWEEN ME AND THE TRANS. VERY SIMPLE. I STILL WEAR A -20 SUIT. IM IN LA MIRADA IF YOU WANT TO SEE IT. 562 537-7706
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jcoppa
Junior Member
Posts: 66
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Post by jcoppa on May 4, 2009 12:13:00 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice guys Joe
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Post by 409 FED on May 4, 2009 14:55:55 GMT -5
just curious, what kind of transmission is it?
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jcoppa
Junior Member
Posts: 66
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Post by jcoppa on May 5, 2009 14:33:19 GMT -5
It's a glide
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Post by slickvic on May 6, 2009 23:42:31 GMT -5
You do not have to wear a -20 suit unless you are turbo or supercharged with a front engine open bodied car. You have been talking about a tranny tunnel right so if you dont have a tranny tunnel you are required to have a -15 suit,..unless you have a supercharger or turbo then its -20. its nice to have a -20 just incase you get blown pg. 68 in 2009 nhra rulebook for adv. et bottom of the page. If you need a 15 I have one for sale in the classifieds. Vic
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Post by slickvic on May 6, 2009 23:46:23 GMT -5
I forgot to ask,.. .is your glide a stock GM case or aftermarket ? and how fast do you plan on going ? if its a stock case you better make sure your max HP and torque wont exceed the distruction of the tranny case. Vic
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jcoppa
Junior Member
Posts: 66
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Post by jcoppa on May 7, 2009 11:30:32 GMT -5
The case is stock, It's a 600hp (approx) small block, I'll be running NE2. John Gates built the trans and the motor so it's a safe combo. Looking at the nostalgia supplement: -20 if your blown -15 if not blown / no tunnel -5 if not blown and have a tunnel. ?? w/-5 gloves and -5 shoes also since it states tin between the driver and trans it can be a tunnel or fire wall right ?? I thought I read it more clearly some where and it read -5 w/tunnel and not blown -5 =no expiration of the suit and more room in the cage. BTW I don't see getting blown in the near future and my -5 is new. Also I'm thinking the fire wall makes more sense as far as trans cooling in between rounds. I have a tunnel template mocked up now and looks like a head ache as far as removal for tech, cooling, etc. Thanks for the advice.
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Post by slickvic on May 7, 2009 13:22:55 GMT -5
In your digger, rear motorplate would be considered your firewall, unless your upper body piece needs a bulk head type firewall to go from the motorplate to the upper body panel to help seal off that area. Tunnel is not considered nor a firewall,..it is considered part of the floor, or tranny tunnel, it maybe a pain to remove and install, but if you want to wear a -5 suit that is what needs to be done, but if it was me I would think about the near future where certain types of cars will be required to have more safty, such as better rated fire suits, more or thicker tinwork, more mandatory requirments for E.T and Adv. Et classes,...so either way you look at it, blown or unblown eventually we all will be required to wear a -15 and or -20 firesuits,...just dont sell your safty short for the sake of cost, and accesibility.
good luck
Vic
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chuck
Junior Member
Posts: 130
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Post by chuck on May 7, 2009 14:14:31 GMT -5
I have a TCI kevlar trans shield with a good cert. for a shorty glide . You can use it this year if you want . The tin won't stop a trans. blast . Chuck
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jcoppa
Junior Member
Posts: 66
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Post by jcoppa on May 7, 2009 15:34:36 GMT -5
I have an SFI bell housing and scatter shield... the tin is for hot oil only, but it is now obvious to me that most people wear -15 and -20 suits. I would think you are safer with a -5 and a "hot oil tin" than just a -15 and no tin.
Vic I think your correct on the motor plate between the block and bell housing being the fire wall but the fire wall Dale has is considered a tunnel in a FED and just keeps the hot oil off the driver. In which case in my car a vertical tin after the pan in a couple pieces would be less of a head ache. I just have to make acceptable to tech.
Joe
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